Upon stepping through the doors and ascending the stairs at NIJŪ, it’s immediately clear that you’re in for something special. But that feeling is heightened even more when you know you’re one of just 4 people who will receive the special meal you’re about to enjoy. Such is the case for a handful of people each night who get to enjoy the NIJŪ ‘At The Counter’ experience.
Blending the worlds of omakase and pre-theatre dining, the special meal sees diners taking a seat at the counter, directly opposite the sushi chefs. From their perch, they go on a glorious journey through NIJŪ’s menu, with courses dictated by what seafood is at its best or freshest on the day. Each piece of food is carefully constructed right in front of them and delivered to their plate – or even their waiting palm – as soon as it’s ready to eat. And somehow it’s all done in time for you to head to a show on the West End.
‘At The Counter’
Upon taking your seat at NIJŪ’s suhi counter, you’ll be greeted by the chef and given a chance to order a drink. This will be the only choice you make all night, with the chef in charge of all of your food from here on. The cocktails are exciting and surprising, with unexpected flavours and combinations that delight but never overwhelm the food. Alternatively, you can enjoy a sake flight, curated by Head Sommelier Antonio Roveda. Chosen to pair with the entire meal, you’re encouraged to try out various pairings from the trio of sakes to draw out hidden flavours from the food and the drinks.
And then there’s the food. Dictated by the daily catch and delivery, with some extremely limited and rare seafood sometimes available, the menu changes day to day. But regardless, you’re in for a treat. And there will be plenty of envious eyes watching from the dining room as your meal is handed directly to you.
Eating ‘At The Counter’
Two things proved particularly exciting about the meal at NIJŪ: the freshness and the multiplicity of flavours and textures. Scallops are so fresh that they twitch and wiggle when tapped lightly with a finger. And what could have been a same-y procession of sushi proved endlessly surprising and exciting.
Smoke fills the air as blowtorches and red-hot coals from a fire are used to warm and sear slices of fish. Fatty pieces of fish melt into the rice and onto your tongue as they go from being prepared to being eaten in mere seconds. Nigiri comes topped with everything from micro-grated yuzu zest to house-made jelly designed to emulate fish roe, crispy rice grains, and caviar (obviously). All the while, you get a front-row seat to the chefs slicing every piece of fish, frying katsu, preparing toppings and sauces. It’s a glorious experience.
NIJŪ
All of this happens in a truly gorgeous space, to boot. The restaurant combines soft, seductive lighting, dark wood, mid-century lighting and mirrors, all coalescing into a unique dining spot. Plus, if you don’t have to rush to a show, you can head downstairs to the attached cocktail bar, Nipperkin, for a nightcap or two.
As you dine, the room fills up behind you, and there is a second chance to watch the sushi chefs at work. As your mouth waters, the chefs prepare platters of sashimi and nigiri. The mini works of sushi art are crowned with an array of toppings and whisked away to waiting tables.
But you’re one of the only people in the restaurant who received the same product, placed directly into your palm. It’s hard to beat that!
An affordable omakase
Even better, it’s not extortionately priced. In fact, ‘At The Counter’ is NIJŪ’s attempt at bringing the omakase experience to more people, with a relatively affordable price. Where other sushi restaurants might charge upwards of £200 or £300 per person, NIJŪ’s ‘At The Counter’ omakase costs just £85.
Said Head Sushi David Bury:
“In Japan, sushi is a celebration. We wanted to make that celebration accessible. Without compromising on quality, we have created a high-end sushi experience which is refined, fast, and thoughtful. In just over an hour, guests are taken on a journey through exceptional fish and precise craftsmanship. Inspired by legendary sushi-yas and masters like Jiro-san, we’ve distilled the essence of omakase into something special, memorable, and guilt-free — both in time and value.”
‘At The Counter’ is available at NIJŪ from Monday to Thursday, with seatings at 5:45pm to commence the meal at 6pm.
📍 20 Berkeley Street, W1J 8EE. The nearest station is Green Park.