
London’s love affair with Mediterranean food is clear to even those with merely a passing interest in the city’s food scene. The city is full of wonderful examples of Italian, Greek, Spanish, and Portuguese restaurants, among many other examples. Whether it’s a yearning for the sunny, laid-back lifestyles that these cuisines represent, or just a love of the bright flavours, we simply can’t get enough of them. One of the city’s newest spots for delicious Mediterranean fare comes to us courtesy of the team behind the beloved Perilla, with a kitchen headed up by Dan Fletcher.
Before taking the reins at the newly-opened Morchella, Fletcher had worked at the likes of the two Michelin-starred The Square as well as the Fenchurch restaurant in the Sky Garden. He also had considerable success on BBC’s The Great British Menu where he made it all the way to the finals. Given he began cooking in his teens, it’s no wonder he’s developed quite the name and reputation for incredible cooking.
Following our chats with the likes of Rahel Stephanie, James Cochran, and Ruben Dawnay, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Dan Fletcher:
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I became involved in cooking when I was still at school working as a kitchen porter in the evenings. I jumped at the chance to help the chefs when they were short-staffed or overwhelmed with orders, it seemed much more fun than washing dishes or picking stalks from spinach leaves. In my early twenties, I’d spend my salary on two things: eating out and travelling and often combining both. Planning trips all over Europe visiting cities and towns on food-based holidays to visit the best restaurants, this included a year away from the UK eating the world, stopping off to work in all kinds of restaurants and to experience different cultures.
So basically, to be honest, eating shapes what I like to cook, often dishes will make it to the menu purely on the grounds of what I want to sit down and eat myself!
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
Working in hospitality is full of challenges, mainly because of the time constraints and pressures of getting all menu items ready for busy lunches and dinner services, but, as challenging as it can be, the rewards are greater! It’s an incredibly fulfilling job, working all morning prepping, cooking and creating menu items, making them as delicious as you possibly can… followed by dressing plates to create beautiful dishes and watching guests smile and revel in the deliciousness of the food – it’s personally incredibly satisfying.
As a young chef, you also learn a really important life skill that means you will never spend your evenings or days off looking into a half-empty fridge clueless and starved of inspiration!
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
Media representations & shows relating to the hospitality industry shine a light on the talent, skills, pressure and dedication it takes to become a chef. Hopefully this encourages and brings in new young people into the industry and helps to promote wider appreciation from foodies and restaurant goers.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
London’s restaurant scene constantly evolves and changes – driven largely by social media and the need to be ‘seen’ in the incredibly crowded Instagram world. Restaurants are constantly finding ways to stand out, innovate and create unique dining experiences. This has resulted in remarkable diversity, driving world-leading standards and I’m incredibly proud to be a small part of it.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
Only getting even better! I find it so impressive to watch London’s restaurants lead the way in trends and experience. I think creativity is key to providing diners with new and exciting culinary experiences serving high-quality innovative dishes in relaxed but stimulating locations and surroundings.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
Working in London’s restaurants has left me with countless memories some good and some not so good – everything from sneaking into a restaurant kitchen in the middle of the night to rectify things that have gone pear-shaped, to a New Year’s Eve party which went way out of control.
One particular moment that still makes me smile was during a very important private wedding event and a specific request by the bride to have soufflés as the dessert…. as you can imagine to execute a large quantity of soufflés at the same time is a big ask! During service I watched as the pastry chef removed half of around 40 soufflés from the ovens only for one of the shelves to slip under the weight and fall crushing two more trays! We dashed to the fridges to get more eggs and of course, there weren’t enough. Fortunately, the wedding guests were distracted with an additional glass of champagne and yet another toast as chefs frantically ran around the local area buying up all the eggs. The team rallied round, repeated and rebaked with only a slight delay and the wedding day meal was saved with no one the wiser.
Fancy heading to Morchella to try out Dan Fletcher’s dishes? Be sure to make a booking here.