In a city as diverse as London, we’re fortunate to be able to enjoy foods and cuisines from all around the world. But some of the most exciting cooking isn’t necessarily being done in new brick-and-mortar restaurants but instead at pop-ups, residencies, and supper clubs. One such example is Spoons, the Indonesian supper club from one of London’s most exciting and talked-about chefs, Rahel Stephanie. What started as a chance to share lesser-known dishes from her country with friends has since grown into one of the hottest dining tickets in town.
The popularity of her supper club and cooking has seen Rahel Stephanie profiled everywhere from Vogue to The Financial Times, and partnering up with Wagamamas on special menu items. Needless to say, if you ever get wind of one of the Spoons supper clubs taking place do not hesitate. Rush to secure yourself a space before you miss out.
Following our chats with the likes of Sophie Wyburd, James Cochran, and Ruben Dawnay, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Rahel Stephanie:
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I started Spoons – my Indonesian supper club – in late 2019 as a means to share delicious foods and little-known recipes from my country with friends. Through my work, I strive to put authentic Indonesian flavours firmly and accurately on the Western map. My mission extends far beyond a tasty menu. To me, cooking Indonesian dishes serves as a way of reclaiming, decolonizing and celebrating the foods of my heritage. My goal and mission has always been to cast a light on the diverse culinary range of Indonesia, placing emphasis on lesser-known, regional dishes and its cultural and historical contexts. As for culinary influences, my biggest teachers in the kitchen were the Indonesian aunties of YouTube, who exchange tips and tricks with their communities. I’ve learnt most of what I know from them.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
As a self-taught young woman of color in the male-dominated culinary world, especially without a traditional background in culinary training, I’m often battling imposter syndrome. Sometimes I’m underestimated, so I make a conscious effort to turn these moments into opportunities to break stereotypes and biases. This fuels my determination to prove my strengths (ie. I’m super organised, which ensures kitchen logistics are always on top form for me) and that culinary expertise transcends age, gender, and background.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
It’s interesting to see how increasingly people have been romanticising chefs, particularly female chefs like me – increasingly evident from the kinds of DM’s I’m getting (laughs). But there’s definitely quite a bit of cis-gender-based stereotyping going on. Men are romanticising female chefs for their nurturing qualities. But then you also have women fetishising male chefs as ‘chef daddies’. It reduces everyone to cliched gender roles.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
When I first moved to London over a decade ago, I noticed a lack of regional restaurants. Many venues served generally pan-Asian menus, with satay in Thai restaurants, gyoza in Chinese ones, tempura in Vietnamese places, and so on. Slowly but surely, however, there’s been a noticeable shift towards greater openness and appreciation for a wider diversity of marginalized regional cuisines. For example, Kolae focuses on the cuisine of Southern Thailand’s Muslim community. I’m excited to see more region-focused menus, which reflect a deeper appreciation for the unique flavors and culinary traditions of specific cultures.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
I would love to say that London will welcome a diversity of restaurants focusing on the cuisine of marginalised cultures, but that would be unrealistically idealistic of me, given the current climate makes it more difficult than ever for independent restaurants to thrive.
For example, countless times I hear customers complain about steep prices when it comes to paying the bill at Asian food establishments, owing to a misconception of equating Asian food to cheapness. People overlook the rising costs of importing specialist ingredients used in many cuisines. The restaurant industry in general has always been inaccessible to those from marginalised backgrounds and these problems make the industry harder to break into than ever.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
Once I downloaded a dating app but got recognised as “Spoons” within the first 3 minutes, so I deleted it immediately. I can’t bear the thought of someone coming to my pop up after perceiving me off a dating app, and me having to serve them food (laughs).
Keep up to date with Rahel Stephanie’s Spoons supper club here.