London foodies will be more than familiar with the name Ruben Dawnay by now – the eponymous cooking force behind the beloved Ruben’s Reubens. Popping up here, there, and everywhere around London, Ruben has built an impressive fan base. He’s so well-regarded by London’s hungry denizens that his pop-ups and food residencies often command lines and regularly sell out.
Ruben Dawnay’s journey to London BBQ star status began with experiments in smoking meats and curing fish in his parent’s garden in Brixton during lockdown. Paying homage to his Polish-Jewish roots, Ruben mastered his craft and kick-started Ruben’s Reubens. Since then, Ruben has even been recognised by Code Hospitality as one of their ’30 Under 30 Rising Stars To Watch’ and has served up food at residencies at the likes of Naughty Piglets, Meatopia, and in Brixton’s iconic Market Row.
Following our chats with Sophie Wyburd and James Cochran, we also had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Ruben Dawnay:
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I come from a family that really appreciates food so I guess I’ve been brought up with it as a focus. I remember stumbling across a Francis Mallman cookbook, several years ago, and being awestruck with his methods of cooking over fire.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
Being young and excited about food, I’ve had so many fantastic opportunities come my way that I’m super grateful for. I guess that’s the beauty of hospitality! There’s a proper willingness to help each other and work on exciting things.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
It’s a dangerous move, but thanks to the Bear, rocking a white tee in the kitchen is now super cool.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
I think pop ups / residencies seem to be massive at the moment. They offer people a way to cook and serve their food with lower risks. This allows for changing and exciting new menus from chefs as they move locations… me included!
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
Eeesh, this is a hard one. I wonder if there will be a move towards eating even more sustainably. Less crap imported meat, organic British veg and maybe even insects?!
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
I was working in a restaurant in North London and was sent to the upstairs fridges with 15 litres of brine to pour over a ton of chickens. These chickens were sitting on a shelf in a couple of large hotel pans. Just as I poured over the last drop of brine and began to cover them, the shelf collapsed and everything spilled out. It was a chicken tsunami that has haunted me since. A serious mess and not a fun one to clean up!
You can find currently find Ruben Dawnay slinging out his delicious smoke-y BBQ platters at Peckham Arches for the summer. You can find Peckham Arches at Blenheim Grove, London, SE15 4QN. The nearest station is Peckham Rye.
Keep up to date with Ruben’s next pop-ups and food residencies here.