Whether you’re a die-hard sports fan with a closet full of jerseys, or a lover of athleisure, almost all of us count at least some sportswear in our wardrobes. The worlds of fashion and sports have been inextricably linked pretty much from the beginning. And now, a fascinating (and free) new sportswear exhibition has opened in London, exploring 100 years of the interaction between the sporting and fashion worlds.
UMBRO 100: Sportswear x Fashion Exhibition, shines a particular spotlight on the Manchester-born brand, Umbro. Covering a wealth of clothing and footwear, with over 100 archival pieces to view, the free exhibition is now open for visitors. But you’ll have to act fast – it ends on April 28.
Why sportswear?
Now it doesn’t matter if you’re completely uninterested in clothing and fashion, or consider yourself a proper fashionista. There is one genre of garments that has pervaded every single wardrobe around the world: sportswear. Some people spend every day decked out in athleisure, while others love repping their team by wearing the jerseys. There was even the unavoidable ‘bloke-core’ trend that dominated 2022 and 2023.
What that all means is that virtually everyone owns some sports-based clothing. (And likely, those garms aren’t even being used for the intended sporting purpose…) Suffice it to say that sportswear has had a tremendous impact on fashion. But then, fashion has also played a huge role in sportswear’s evolution through the years.
The exhibition picks a particular collaboration, that can be seen as the genesis of the now huge trend of sportswear companies collaborating with fashion brands and designers. According to the Westminster Menswear Archive, it all started with Umbro’s 2002 collaboration with Paul Smith. Since then, the brand has partnered with over 60 designers and brands – including everyone from Virgil Abloh to Palace, Supreme, and more.
What to see at the sportswear exhibition
The exhibition was put together by the Westminster Menswear Archive, which is part of the University of Westminster. The exhibition focuses on the Umbro brand, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. The brand has played a particular role in evolving “sportswear from its functional, athletic, and sporting roots to [become] the daily uniform for billions of people around the world.”
Visitors can see over 120 archival styles from Umbro. These trace the evolving relationship between sportswear and fashion over the past 100 years. Visitors will find the collection split into five sections: Manchester, England, Tailored, Replica, and Diamond. These include iconic items that even the most casual fashion fan will recognise.
There is also a walk back into the past, that shows viewers how sportswear has changed on a professional level. Historic items include those created for rowing, boxing, athletics, hockey, and basketball. There are also iconic football shirts from the likes of Manchester City, Manchester United, AFC Ajax, Scotland, and England.
Said Professor Andrew Groves, Co-Curator of UMBRO 100: SPORTSWEAR X FASHION:
“Though collaborations between sportswear companies and fashion designers are now commonplace, Umbro was at the forefront of this, with its collaboration with Paul Smith in 2002… [The] Paul Smith collaboration was the first to result in a full collection between a designer and a sportswear company being produced. As such it is a landmark moment and led to later collaborations with some of the world’s most important fashion brands, including Off-White, Vetements, and Supreme.”
Where and when to see it
UMBRO 100: Sportswear x Fashion Exhibition is currently showing at the Ambika P3 venue space. This is part of the University of Westminster. Find it at Ambika P3, University of Westminster, Marylebone, NW1 5LS. The nearest station is Baker Street.
The Umbro sportswear exhibition is open now and will run until April 28, 2024. Admission is free.
Find out more about the sportswear exhibition here.