London has no shortage of restaurants that go all out with interiors, food, and experience. Ours is a city of extremes, where you can get an incredible meal for a few quid, or have one of the most indulgent experiences around. One London location that goes all in on turning the experience up to 11 is Mayfair’s Bacchanalia. With a kitchen headed up by Athinagoras Kostakos, Bacchanalia is a unique offering in London’s dining scene.
Inspired by the “Roman god of wine, celebration and liberation”, the restaurant offers up a true feast for the senses. Everywhere you look is stunning sight after stunning sight. It’s “a riot of creativity by Martin Brudnizki, with original antique sculptures and contemporary artworks by the likes of Damian Hirst.” But at the core of the experience is the opportunity to feast with friends and family on a menu of Greek and Italian food.
Hot off the back of chatting with the likes of Halil Şimşek, Zan Kaufman, and Rahel Stephanie, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Athinagoras Kostakos.
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I grew up surrounded by family-run, traditional Greek tavernas, so you could say that’s where my passion for authentic Mediterranean flavours and ingredients was founded – it was hard to avoid!
When it comes to culinary influences, beyond the traditional Greek dishes we enjoyed around the dinner table, I’ve always been hugely impressed by the minds behind the cookery scene in San Sebastián, Argentina, and Northern Italy – the likes of Dani Garcia and Francis Mallmann come to mind, whom both of which have hugely shaped my style and approach to food.
Having grown up enjoying good food with good people, good wine and good conversation, the joy of sharing has had a huge influence on the feasting dishes featured on my menus at Bacchanalia – I truly believe eating with loved ones is good for the soul.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
One of the biggest challenges as a young chef in London is the cost – it can be hard to survive, and afford to actually enjoy the capital. But, if you are able to, being a young chef here can expose you to some of the best culinary skills in the world. The long hours in those early days of your career are tough but came with a real sense of camaraderie with my surrounding team.
The city is a metropolis of food and ingredients, and home to some astounding restaurants – the opportunity to learn, develop, and build a strong network is unparalleled. If it wasn’t for my network here, the opportunity with Richard Caring at Bacchanalia may not have come about. Having these opportunities through working in London has been hugely rewarding.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
Chefs, in my opinion, have always carried out their duties with passion and dedication, however, historically, this has largely been done outside the public eye.
Nowadays, through the likes of social media, TV shows and series such as “The Bear”, the perception is changing. Chefs are becoming more like celebrities, and we are seeing that passion and dedication on our screens, which is inspiring! It is creating a lot of opportunity for those in the culinary space, which I am sure is incredibly exciting and motivating for the younger chefs entering this space, looking to rise up the ranks.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
London, in my eyes, has always been a hub of culinary excellence – it is home to some incredible restaurants and is a place I always look to meet fellow chefs, and to feel inspired. It is no secret the pandemic has changed how the industry operates – concepts that may have worked in the past are no longer viable, which has meant chefs have had to change their way of thinking, and get more creative.
We are seeing a lot of fascinating concepts, experiences, and collaborations develop off the back of it, which is exciting, and I hope to see continue – Bacchanalia is a prime example of this with its luxury, theatrical, exuberant setting.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
As mentioned, London is one of the best cities on the planet for its culinary offering, and I don’t anticipate this changing anytime soon. We are seeing an increase in diversity and creativity in our industry.
I think we will see smaller restaurants and more chef-driven concepts taking centre stage, as well as growth in the likes of farm-to-table concepts and street food markets in the city.
One thing we haven’t seen a lot of on a bigger scale, but I believe we will see thrive in the coming years, is the concept of the “ghost kitchen” – this is a space used exclusively for preparing food for delivery / take out, offering a flexible, cost-effective solution for food entrepreneurs.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
A memorable experience that I will never forget was during my first job working here in London, I had to organise the goods order with the suppliers. My English wasn’t at its best in those early days of living here, so items got lost in translation – I was often very confused when the order arrived the next day!
Athinagoras Kostakos heads up the kitchen at Mayfair’s stunning Bacchanalia restaurant. To try out his cooking, make a booking here.