If there’s one specific food item that London is arguably in love with, it’s probably the burger. It’s a food that London has taken and run with – almost unlike any other. You can find all sorts of examples in our city, from international burger vendors selling their wares to gargantuan beef-y behemoths that defy our understanding of the word ‘burger’. But there are also humble examples that strive to demonstrate the beauty of the form by using the very best ingredients and techniques. Within all of these burger worlds, it can be hard to pick out the very best burger in London. But one name that’s on everyone’s lips when that topic comes up is the universally adored Bleecker Burger. And the name behind the brand? None other than Zan Kaufman.
Oh, and in case you’ve forgotten just how good Bleecker Burgers wares are, allow us to remind you of this: Earlier this year, they were recognised by The National Burger Awards as having the UK’s Best Burger. The winning burger – a Bacon Double, cooked by Celine Raeburn – made them the first burger vendor to win the award twice. It was both Bleecker’s and Raeburn’s second time winning, with Raeburn netting a victory for Bleecker back in 2020, too.
Hot off the back of chatting wth the like of Ruben Dawnay, Rachel Stephanie, and Dan Fletcher, we had the chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter with Zan Kaufman.
What inspired you to start Bleecker Burger, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped its cooking style?
I was a lawyer working in NYC and I fell in love with a burger at an East Village burger joint. From that moment on all I could think about was starting a burger place.
The woman who owned the burger spot, Zaitzeff (where I went on to work) had this powerful matriarch where she knew nothing about food margins and labour yet everything about creating outstanding tasting food and creating a warm, welcoming environment. She was awesome and really inspired me to create something special which comes from the heart.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of owning restaurants in London?
I love working collaboratively to grow. I have a fantastic team and working with them is an incredible reward. Being able to use Bleecker as a vehicle to raise money for my passions is another huge reward. We have been able to donate to charities that support LGBTQ+ communities, black feminist organisations and mental health & addiction organisations.
The challenges include
- Being proactive and reactive all the time.
- Always having a new job every couple of years based on our size.
- Losing employees that I cared about to other businesses.
I’d say learning to develop my leadership skills has been rewarding and challenging.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of the hospitality world?
I am not hugely into these shows, but I imagine “The Bear” glamorises inappropriate behaviour in kitchens.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
Since I started Bleecker, London’s food scene has transformed, and we have some of the best food in the world. I think a lot of this came from the street food revolution that we were fortunate to be a part of back in 2012, alongside greats like Bao and Smokestak.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
It needs to become a more inclusive space at the top. The leaders in the space can’t continue to be all white men. The London hospitality scene benefits from diverse voices.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
I have never worked in any London kitchen before, however, I can comment on working in street food as we started off with our truck. I would spend eight hours prepping fries for big events the next day, and I would then drive the truck to its storage location. I once got out to lock the kitchen compartment of the truck where I realised 200kg of prepped fries had fallen onto the floor… I was literally up to my knees in fries.
Bleecker Burger has various locations around London. Find your nearest Bleecker Burger here.