The Standard has no doubt built a rep for hosting some of the most spectacular pop-ups and residences. So, it comes with no huge surprise that it was chef Ixta Belfrage’s time to take over their restaurant Isla for the next three months.
For those of you who don’t know Ixta, let me explain. Ixta worked for Yotam Ottolenghi’s Test Kitchen for five years before also being a runner-up for best debut cookbook at the Fortum & Mason Awards. Ixta’s prawn lasagne, a favourite from her book, not only became a talking point online but really is the best damn thing you might possibly taste. Like her book, the dishes on the menu take inspiration from a variety of cuisines close to her such as Brazil, Mexico and Italy. It’s safe to say that she is not shy of innovative concoctions and hearty flavours so be prepared to be tastefully surprised. I believe I had not yet experienced such a stunning amalgamation of flavours and ingredients in one menu before but I can promise you, it’s something really special.
The drinks ordeal
Now, if you’re looking for a cheeky pre-meal drink, there’s plenty of options around King’s Cross. But if you’re looking quick and easy, The Standard have a stunning pub/bar called the Double Standard. This bar has a 1970s retro feel with their décor as a nod to the London transport system From curtains that mimic the tube’s iconic seat cover designs to coat hangers that resemble the strands of London Underground map, you’ll feel right at home. They serve craft beers, wines, champagne and cocktails if you’re feeling adventurous. Alternatively, situated on the 11th floor of The Standard hotel, above Decimo restaurant, The Standard Rooftop aims to bring ‘the vibe of New York’s iconic rooftop bars to London’ so if you’re looking for some views with those drinks, that’s the spot for you.
Personally, I would recommend heading straight to Isla and trying Ixta’s special selection of cocktails, all in partnership with Casamigos tequila. I highly recommend the Guava Margarita. Trust me, it not only goes down like juice but is incredibly refreshing and sets you up comfortably for the food that will come after.
(P.S.- Leave room for dessert.)
The beginning
Before you tuck in, order the Plantain crisps with papaya & dendê pimenta, the perfect snack while you enjoy your Guava margs and work out what else to order.
For starters, I and I’m sure everyone else highly recommends the Moqueca monkfish slider. Moqueca is a seafood stew originating from Brazil made with white fish, onions, garlic, bell peppers, tomatoes, coriander, and coconut milk. Now imagine that between except the fish is battered oozing with that curried sauce served with cabbage slaw, kewpie mayo on a soft and sweet brioche bun. It is absolutely delicious and definitely sets the tone for the rest of the menu.
Next up is the corn pamonha wrapped in a banana leaf served with curried red pepper ragú, cashew chilli oil – essentially a vegan dish also heavily inspired by Ixta’s Brazilian roots. With the corn pamonha melting in your mouth followed up by the taste of jammy curried red pepper ragu, you’ll be left, excited for more.
The middle
For mains, Ixta really gives an ode to her multi-cultural background – from pasta to tacos, those simple dishes are reinvented with the most interesting ingredients paired with amazing punchy flavours that offers a subtle nod to each part of her culture.
Before I get into the prawn lasagne, let me talk you through the guava roast duck tacos. There are several elements to it, so don’t be alarm if you find your table stacked with plates. Once you stack up your tortilla with all of the ingredients, you’ll find yourself a guava roast duck taco served with charred spring onions and a chipotle crema. It really is nothing less than an explosion of flavour in your mouth – while some might disagree, in my opinion, the duck is absolutely the star of the show. Doused in guava marinade, it is the juiciest damn thing ever.
Ixta’s prawn lasagne undoubtedly exceeds all expectations. With rich layers of prawn ragu served in a smoky habanero chilli oil, while this is meant to be a sharing plate, I promise you, you’ll not want to. I can truly understand the hype of it all and lucky for us, you can find the recipe in her cookbook.
We also ordered the okra skewer served with mango & yellow habanero vinaigrette which I highly recommend as a break from the meaty affair.
The end
After all that, if you still have some room and took my advice to leave space for dessert, you’re very welcome because be prepared to be amazed once again. You should try the honey-roasted cashew ice cream choco-taco (as seen in photo), it is crunchy and going to be hard to share so that’s something to keep in mind.
My second recommendation and my favourite of the two are the plantain fritters with warm chocolate caramel sauce. I simply believe that if you start with plantain, you must end with plantain. It is soft, deep fried, covered in batter, doused in warm chocolate sauce and will leave you feeling warm and fuzzy inside.
If you do find yourself in King’s Cross, make your way to The Standard’s Isla restaurant and ask for Ixta’s special menu. It is one of the best meals and menus I’ve tasted in London, in a long long time. It’s quite unlike anything out there so one can only hope that Ixta’s delicious food can find a permanent home because a taste of this has definitely left me with cravings I can only hope to satisfy again.
Where? The Standard, 10 Argyle Street, London WC1H 8EG.
Till? Until 22 June 2024.
Bookings: Visit their website.