
When it comes to British chefs, one of THE names that almost everyone knows is Theo Randall. As well as heading up the team for acclaimed River Café when it was awarded its Michelin Star, he’s also responsible for some of London’s most beloved Italian cooking. In fact, many credit Randall for the River Café’s enduring success as an important restaurant in London’s culinary history.
Following his time at the River Café, Randall opened his eponymous Theo Randall at the InterContinental London. It was quickly met with praise, and diners flock to the restaurant to try his rustic but refined produce-driven cooking. Since then, he has written a number of cookbooks to share his love of Italian food and cooking with a wider audience and you’ll often find him gracing your screens on the likes of BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen.
After chatting with the likes of Eran Tibi, Riaz Phillips, and Vivek Singh, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Theo Randall.
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I became a chef mostly because I loved food as a child and my mother was a very good cook. Cooking was something that I really enjoyed from a young age. Whether it was baking or making a salad at dinner time, it just made so much sense and [provided so much] enjoyment to me. I love to please people, so being able to do that through food is the perfect platform.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
The biggest reward of being a chef in London is that you are in the capital, which attracts the more discerning customer and keeps you on your toes. Also, there is a huge variety of places to eat and try out, which I find inspiring. Competition is always a good thing, as it will make you question what you are doing and naturally you will want to be better, whether it’s the food service, decor or lighting. Checking out the competition is always healthy. The challenge is that you have to work hard and the hours are never social, but that is hospitality. It has to be this way because we are always going to be working when our customers want to enjoy themselves.
Hospitality is very special and anyone who has worked in it long enough can understand that it is a way of life and there is a kind of inner circle that brings people together. There are so many social skills that come from working in restaurants in London, whether it is being able to cook for your friends or family on your day off or using your communication skills to start up a conversation with someone.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
For years people have been coming into my kitchen expecting someone to be shouting and screaming. Fortunately, that has never been how I operate my kitchen. Kitchens have become less toxic places to work. I always say a good balanced team ie boys and girls make a happier environment. I am not that interested in watching kitchen dramas like ‘The Bear’, but I can appreciate they do try and make them as realistic as possible.
If you filmed a full-on service with no editing, I think it would stress a lot of people and make them see what intense pressure looks like. Television programs show some of this but only the pretty bits. Media always like to exaggerate the heat in the kitchen and in doing this makes for great viewing.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
The culinary scene has changed a lot over the last few years with a far more casual approach, with an emphasis not on just good food but professional friendly service, great decors and most importantly, atmosphere. Social media has a huge part to play in this. Photographing or filming while dining has never been more frequent than it is now.
It’s so nice to see how important seasonal cooking has become and more relaxing sharing tables always makes for an enjoyable social experience.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
I see the next 5-10 years developing the London culinary scene into more simple casual places to get a quick bite to eat, grander restaurants with incredible entrances and flamboyant decor. We have always had a diverse culinary scene with restaurants from all over the world. Londoners love to try new cuisines and we are one of the best places in the world for diversity.
As a nation we are well educated in food and get inspiration from other countries, but as time goes on we are also growing, foraging, and making incredible produce from our own shores which are being cooked by brilliant young chefs who are cooking seasonal British produce and developing their own style. This will transform the London dining scene over the coming years.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
When I was chef at the River Cafe, I remember the late great Steve Bird from Cove Shellfish calling me from a boat where they had just landed a 14kg turbot. He told me that it was an incredible fish and would I like it, as he was coming down to London to see a friend and he would drop before 5pm that evening, in time for dinner service. So, I put the fish on the menu and told the waiters that we had this amazing fish arriving and it would be great to sell it.
Well, 5 pm passed and there was no sign of Steve or the turbot. I called him and he called me back to say he was running late because of the traffic but promised it would be there before service started. At 7 pm still no Turbot but was told he would be there soon, the waiters started putting orders in for the Turbot. Eventually, Steve arrived and rushed through the restaurant holding this box with the best-looking Turbot I had ever seen, the customers had been told that the fish was being delivered imminently, which probably made it taste even better.
I cut the turbot into steaks on the bone and we started cooking them as soon, as we could because the orders were coming in thick and fast for the wood-roasted turbot tranche. It was a hectic service, but the turbot was sold out by 8 pm and had to be the freshest Turbot ever sold in a London restaurant.
To try Theo Randall’s food, head to his acclaimed Theo Randall at the InterContinental London restaurant. Find out more and book here.