Food is indelibly entwined with the culture and tradition within which is it prepared and eaten. It tells stories as it nourishes, and can provide a glimpse into someone’s history. One food writer who understands this concept incredibly well is the award-winning writer Riaz Phillips. Across books like the award-winning ‘West Winds: Recipes, History and Tales from Jamaica’ and his most recent book, ‘East Winds: Recipes, History and Tales from the Hidden Caribbean’, Phillips has made it his mission to champion the food, traditions, and stories behind the food he grew up with. His writing combines recipes, story-telling, and history, and you’ll find his words in all manner of publications and magazines, as well as his books. He also makes videos for various outlets sharing even more food and stories.
Hot off the back of chatting with the likes of Vivek Singh, The Flygerians, and Tarell McIntosh, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Riaz Phillips.
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I wouldn’t consider myself a chef. I’m really just a fan of the food from the various backgrounds of my family and I love to illustrate and express that with others. Sometimes this is in the form of writing, other times videomaking and of course, since it’s food, that does often include cooking. I mainly get inspired by people I know who I see cooking up close.
The first main inspiration was the Rastafari community in Jamaica. I loved the way they incorporate nature and self-sustenance in their cooking and with a limited amount of tools and cookware they would create the most amazing dishes. The others included my Caribbean and American aunts who could cook up a feast for 15-20 people whilst holding a baby. In the London community, there is an eternal amount to be inspired by but always a special shoutout to my friends who ran The Groundnut West-African pop-up series, Marie Mitchell and Ixta Belfrage.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
The same as being a young starter in any profession. London is a really expensive place to exist. Cooking and cheffing is an art form as well as a job and having to exist in London means that creativity can be stifled trying to maintain a livelihood.
That said, so many opportunities exist in London that you wouldn’t find in other parts of the UK so it’s a double-edged sword.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
I supposed they have humanised the industry a bit more and shown the realities behind it showing the good and the bad. A lot of people see a flash restaurant with sparkling tiles and swanky lights and assume the owner is rolling in cash when in reality the margins are so thin and in flux it’s rarely plain sailing. It has also shone a light on the small intricacies of what makes chefs so efficient and I think a lot of people get inspired to replicate things like making a mise en place before they cook at home.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
There was a great point recently where “street food” institutions had opened the doors of many people who may not have been able to afford a restaurant to be able to have a (semi) permanent home. Things like Kerb have led to subgenres dedicated to niches of foods like BlackEats for example. These are good because they’ve created a new public space where amazing, high-quality cooking can be enjoyed beyond just restaurants.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
More of what I mentioned in the last question. Added to that as the years roll on sadly the generation of food and cooking passes with them. I am a fan of documenting food traditions and so on but I am also a fan of experimentation and adaption of foods. With a younger generation coming up not burdened by the older generation of eyeballs, this may result in some unique diaspora cuisines.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
The camaraderie is the main great takeaway and if you are fortunate to have a good (nice) team you often remain close way after you leave.
As well as Riaz Phillips’ books, his writing can currently be found in The Guardian where he has a column. You can also keep up to date with his cooking and writing on his socials.