As part of our Kitchen Chatter series, we’ve been lucky to chat with some fascinating chefs, cooks, and writers – both established and up-and-coming. And this week we’re talking to the cooking force behind Peckham’s newest kitchen residency, Chef Nathaniel Mortley – AKA Natty Can Cook.
Nathaniel had a unique journey in the cooking world. He originally pursued a career in hospitality as a way of staying out of trouble on the streets, after being stabbed at age 16. He worked his way up to working in fine dining restaurants around London and even did catering for the 2012 Olympics. However, he faced challenges and discrimination and temporarily fell back into crime – ending up in HMP Brixton. While there, he continued cheffing as part of The Clink Project. Since his release, he has worked hard to bring Caribbean fine dining to the London restaurant scene all while supporting other participants from The Clink Project following their release. And now, you can find Natty Can Cook heading up a new kitchen residency at The Greyhound pub in Peckham.
So, following chats with the likes of Jack Coggins, Halil Şimşek, and Athinagoras Kostakos, we decided it was time for some Kitchen Chatter with Natty Can Cook.
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
My culinary journey began at home, where I would often assist my aunt with her cake-making side business. It was through these early experiences that my passion for cooking was first ignited. One of my biggest sources of inspiration is chef Jason Howard, a true pioneer in the fine dining Caribbean scene. To me, he’s the GOAT of Caribbean cuisine.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
As a young chef, my biggest challenge has been finding a trusted brigade that shares my vision of elevating Caribbean cuisine beyond its typical association with takeaways, transforming it into a refined and respected culinary experience.
My greatest reward, however, is the ability to inspire others through my journey. It still feels surreal that just three years ago I was incarcerated, and today I’m achieving my goals with my first residency at The Greyhound in Peckham.
How have media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
The media often portrays chefs as volatile, angry, and easily irritated, but I don’t believe this reflects the reality today. While that may have been the case 10-15 years ago, in my experience, the culture in kitchens has definitely calmed down and evolved.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years? And, where do you see it heading?
The London hospitality scene is constantly evolving, always embracing new trends. Right now, it’s all about smaller plates and the sharing concept, which has proven to be a hit (I’ve incorporated it into my own restaurant as well).
Looking ahead, I see the industry shifting towards more value-for-money options, as the average person can’t regularly afford £150 tasting menus. The cost of living crisis is hitting everyone’s pockets hard.
Why do you think it’s important for different cultures to have that space in London’s culinary space?
In a city as diverse as London, it’s essential for different cultures to have spaces where they can authentically represent themselves. There are so many hidden gems within this vibrant, eclectic city that deserve to be showcased.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
A memorable experience? Where do I start?! My culinary journey has been full of ups and downs, but one moment that really stands out is when I got a bit too confident as a Demi Chef de Partie and decided to take on the fish section. Little did I know, it would turn out to be one of the worst services I’ve ever done!
Our Tamsin recently went along to check out Natty Can Cook and was hugely impressed. Read her review here.
Find out more about Natty Can Cook, and keep up to date with his cooking, here.