Mainstay Peckham pub, The Greyhound, reopened earlier this year (2024), and as of August, welcomed its first kitchen residency, Natty Can Cook. Available six days a week, Natty Can Cook – spearheaded by Peckham local Nathaniel Mortley – brings diners a fine dining take on Caribbean dishes, with a particular focus on Jamaican cuisine. Intrigued by this casual local meets fine dining approach, I went to check out Natty Can Cook myself; read on for the full review, and five reasons why you also need to head down.
1. The food
Billed as Caribbean fine dining, the Natty Can Cook residency at The Greyhound serves up Jamaican-inspired sharing dishes with fine dining presentations. The menu is varied with starters, plates, main dishes, and desserts, served out of the open kitchen. Natty most definitely can cook, because he had me enjoying dishes I would normally be unmoved by. I’m not a particular lover of butter, yet I was chowing down on the grilled roti – the unique way of crisping the roti slightly, and that spice? Simple, but beautiful.
My absolute favourites of the night had to be the softshell crab, with its perfect juxtaposition of crunchy coating and soft meat; and the well-seasoned, melt-in-your-mouth steak, with oxtail jus. As I don’t like cheese, I gave the r*sscl*rt chicken burger (yes, that’s its name – and we laughed for a while) a miss, but was assured that it was “perfect” by my partner, thanks to its soft and ripe plantain filling, atop a crispy coated chicken. As for dessert, I fell in love with the plantain cake. Soft, moist, and the right amount of sweetness… I could have eaten four.
2. The drinks
Let’s be honest, the drinks were just the opening act to the wonderful show that was the food, but it was clear time was still spent perfecting them. Of course, with the Jamaican meal had to come a rum punch. The one served at The Greyhound had a good kick – you could taste the Wray & Nephew – and went down smooth. There was a selection of other classic cocktails too, some of which could be made into mocktails on request.
If beer, lager, wine, or soft drinks are more your bag, the option is there; The Greyhound is a pub, after all.
3. The story behind the residency
Arguably, the food is the best reason to try out this residency, but the story behind the brand is important too. Natty grew up in Peckham, and after being stabbed at age 16, he pursued a career in hospitality as a way to stay out of trouble on the streets. Throughout his career, he worked at various fine dining restaurants, including Oblix in The Shard, and the Michelin-starred City Social, and even catered high-profile events, such as the 2012 Olympics.
However, the years weren’t without challenges and discrimination, and in 2019, Natty did temporarily fall back into crime; during his time in HMP Brixton, he continued cheffing as part of The Clink Project, and since his release, he’s worked hard to bring Caribbean fine dining to the forefront in London. Even more importantly, his mission is to run a space that offers opportunities in catering to break the cycle for ex-convicts – Natty noted that 87% of those who participated in The Clink Project haven’t turned back to crime.
Over the last few years, Natty has honed this concept under the name Natty Can Cook, gaining traction on social media and in private event spaces; and now the permanent residency at The Greyhound, just a stone’s throw from where he grew up.
4. The service
Dining at Natty Can Cook is about more than just the food you eat – it’s about the whole experience (just like this review, eh). At The Greyhound, it’s a family affair: Natty’s family join in serving dishes, chatting to customers, and generally making the whole experience familiar. This is an art that’s been lost in many restaurants and pubs – and we found it here.
Natty himself is a charismatic host: when he can, he takes the time to come out from behind the open kitchen and chat with each table. These kinds of things take attentive service to the next level, and will encourage diners to return again and again. His cheeky Instagram tagline is ‘your gyal’s favourite cook’, and with his charm, it was easy to see why.
5. The location
The Natty Can Cook residency occupies the historic Peckham pub, The Greyhound. The Victorian building was reopened earlier this year (2024) by The Cause (East London nightlife business), and boasts two floors. Dining takes place on street level, as do pub quizzes, karaoke, and live sports streaming, while the basement often hosts DJ nights. The pub has all the creature comforts you’d expect for a local, perfect for winter evenings. Once the weather warms up again, there is also an outdoor area.
To conclude this review of the Natty Can Cook residency, Natty most definitely can cook. The food not only tastes great, but is presented beautifully too, and comes as a whole package, wrapped with exemplary service from entrance to exit. We were advised new menus are coming, including a drinks menu, and a Sunday roast, so we’ll plan our return visit from now. Watch this space!