Over in East London, a delicious surprise awaits those who venture into the yard of a local brewery and taproom. Follow your nose and you’ll discover one of London’s most exciting BBQ spots. Tucked away amongst kegs waiting to be filled with beer, in a courtyard filled with lush outdoor seating, you’ll find From The Ashes.
From The Ashes started during the COVID pandemic, when Curtis Bell and Martin Anderson started serving BBQ from a hatch in Hackney Wick. The duo had met previously while working at Temper and joined forces to bring incredible, fiery food to London. Initially devised as a delivery concept, they quickly pivoted to collection-only as their popularity grew. And while they’ve since shut the doors to their hatch, you’ll now find From The Ashes permanently cooking up food at Hackney’s Five Points Brewery & Courtyard.
Hot off the back of chatting with the likes of Pavel Baranovs, Graham Squire, and Niklas Ekstedt, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Curtis Bell of From The Ashes – while BBQing partner Martin Anderson no doubt stood behind him nodding in agreement.
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
I actually got inspired to become a chef back in home economics in school. Ever since the first time I made something, from scratch that was edible, I was hooked, and I pursued it ever since. I toyed with many aspects of cooking throughout my career looking for the one that resonated with me the most, and I found open fire cooking to hit all the spots. When I came to London one of the biggest influences on me at the time in BBQ were Pitt Cue Co. Their cookbook was a bible for me as I was playing with different recipes and styles in fire cooking. I landed at Temper, which introduced the whole animal aspect of cooking to me. You could say FTA (From The Ashes) is a combination of whole animal BBQ, and playful street food, leaning heavily into both.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
I think the biggest challenges for young chefs coming through, is staying relevant and at the front of people’s minds. The competition is so fierce in London, people follow the craze, want the next best thing and they want it yesterday. Staying ahead of the curve is the biggest challenge. The biggest reward, is being surrounded by some of the best chefs and food in the world, and the opportunity to learn is limitless.
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
I think these types of shows and media have over romanticised the kitchen life of the average chef, and that it’s all glitz, glam and rockstars in the kitchens and your average person could do it, which isn’t the case. What I will say about The Bear in particular, is that it has done a great job of highlighting the state of mental heath within hospitality, and the enormous levels of stress we put on ourselves. I would get genuinely worked up watching that show, as it would transport me instantly into that “in the shit” environment which I’ve been in so many times.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
People are not keen to spend out as much as they did before COVID, and I think it’s helped drive the street food scene and quick eat and go places. We’ve seen some big London institutions shut down, and a new wave of young eateries come through. Everyone’s pockets are a little tighter, and we can feel it across the board.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
I think with rising costs across the board, we’re going to see much more high-end restaurants and chefs move out from expensive areas and boroughs into much more community based areas. I also see chefs moving a lot more into regenerative farming produce, as we struggle more and more every year to maintain our countryside with the changing climate.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
I think one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had in a London Kitchen were the early days of FTA in the hatch. We were all coming from unemployment, we had a lot of our friends working with us and we were all having fun, cooking some good food out of The Hatch with minimal responsibilities. Fun times.
From The Ashes has a permanent residency at Hackey Five Points Brewery & Taproom.
📍 Find them in the courtyard, at 61 Mare Street, E8 4RG. The nearest stations are London Fields and Cambridge Heath.