What does it take to cook food that’s fit for royalty? Well, to find out, the best place to go is the Dining Room at The Goring. Not only has it been a royal favourite for literal decades, but it also has a Royal Warrant and was inarguably one of Queen Elizabeth II’s favourite places to dine. Oh, and it also has a Michelin Star – because of course, it does… And the person behind the scenes, upholding the storied restaurant’s venerated reputation, is Executive Chef Graham Squire.
Following stints at Claridge’s, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, and the Michelin-starred Trinity, Squire brought the perfect mix of tradition and modernity to The Goring’s restaurant. No surprise, then, that the restaurant retained its Michelin Star at this year’s ceremony. The Dining Room at The Goring was praised by the Michelin Guide as “a model of British style and understatement… [which] appeals to those who ‘like things done properly'”. But it’s reputation for tradition and serving the royals doesn’t mean it’s fuddy duddy and stuck in its ways. While they serve classic British dishes, there’s also a focus in the kitchen on cutting-edge techniques and top-notch ingredients.
Image: @thegoring, via IG
Hot off the back of chatting with the likes of Niklas Ekstedt, Aidan Richardson, and Theo Randall, we had a chance for some ‘Kitchen Chatter’ with Graham Squire.
What inspired you to become a chef, and who are your biggest culinary influences that have shaped your cooking style?
What inspired me to be a chef was that my grandmother used to do a lot of cooking and always me get involved with every aspect of it, in particular savoury baking. When I left school my father found an advert for the Bournemouth and Poole specialised chef programme which I joined.
What are the biggest challenges and rewards of being a young chef in London?
I’m not a young chef by any stretch of the imagination but I still find the same challenges as most chefs, finding the skilled level of chefs that you require to deliver the high standards that I want. But the reward is teaching these young cooks and growing them into well rounded young chefs. There are many balls to juggle in the industry nowadays and having a fantastic team behind you helps.
Image: @thegoring, via IG
How have shows like “The Bear” and other media representations influenced public perception of chefs?
I don’t watch The Bear – but I do know that social media gives a unrealistic representation of the industry. Online it looks very glamourous and cool but it is really hard work and long hours. I think as a young chef seeing that it doesn’t help when they come to work in the industry.
How has the London culinary scene changed over the past few years?
The London culinary scene is always evolving but it does always tend to track back to its culinary roots with classical cooking being at the heart. There are a lot of great places just cooking great food with quality ingredients and losing the fuss – just tasty food.
Where do you see the London culinary scene heading in the next 5-10 years?
There is already a lot of emphasis on ethical, sustainable and zero waste food at the moment, but I think in the next 5-10 years it will be the standard, as well as chef hours being set to well under 50 being an industry norm.
Can you share a memorable experience or anecdote from your time working in London’s kitchens?
I have been cooking for 23 years so there are many. Kitchens are always a hub of activity with like-minded passionate people, [so] there is never a dull moment or day. I remember in the restaurant I opened in the country , it was so remote none of my FOH team – which were all a lot younger – recognised [acclaimed French chef] Pierre Koffman when he dined. Luckily I passed him on the stairs going up to my office; he told me he loved the terrine dish but however absolutely slated the new modern blowtorching of the mackerel technique! Very funny.
Image: @thegoring, via IG
Find out more about the Dining Room at The Goring here.