Have you ever wanted a taste – maybe just a nibble, just a smidgen – of the Michelin experience but baulked at the price? It’s an unavoidable fact that the majority of Michelin-starred meals ask for incredible sums of money. But what if there was a way to give it a try without having to worry quite as much about the financial repercussions? The charming Brazilian bistro, Elis, offers all that and more.
Tucked away in a charming first-floor location within the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green, Elis is the neighbour and little sibling to the two Michelin-starred Da Terra. Both restaurants were founded by Chef Rafael Cagali and exist in a symbiotic harmony. Drawing from the same ingredients and produce, Elis allows Chef Rafael Cagali to share his cooking with a wider audience in a relaxed environment.
The restaurant is a tribute to his mother and an homage to Cagali’s upbringing. In fact, it’s even named after his mother’s first restaurant and jazz bar in São Paulo, which in turn was named after famed Brazilian musician, Elis Regina. It’s a beautiful restaurant, with a lovely intimate vibe. The room houses just 30 seats across 10 tables, and it almost feels like you’re having a wonderful meal in your friend’s (very nice) living room, with vinyl records and personal touches displayed throughout the room.
The food at Elis
When you picture a Brazilian restaurant, you might think of platters of meat stretched as far as the eye can see. But Elis does things a little differently. Informed by Cagali’s Brazilian and Italian heritage, the menu spreads evenly across seafood, pasta, meat, and veggie dishes. The dishes come from Cagali’s desire to share his upbringing with diners.
Said Rafael Cagali:
“I have wanted to explore some of the more relaxed elements of Brazilian and Italian food culture for some time; drawing on everything from my favourite street food to family meal celebration dishes that my grandma used to make.”
Meals start with a selection of snacks and small bites, these range from bolinho de bacalhau (or Brazilian Salt Cod Croquettes) to trout ceviche served on a crispy piece of fried trout skin. From there, the meal moves into pasta, with options such as Braised Beef Shin Cavatelli, and seasonal specials. Following the pasta, it’s all about big ol’ serving portions of fish and meat, each accompanied by cassava and braised beans. Be sure to leave room for dessert, though, and don’t you dare skip the Bolinho de Chuva with Doçe de Leite (caramel-filled doughnut balls).
Elis’ pedigree, and Cagali’s experience, show themselves in small details that illustrate the incredible skills of the chefs. This is hardly surprising, though, since Head Chef Joe Holness came to Elis from Da Terra, where he was Sous Chef and was part of the original opening team.
The hyper-seasonal Wild Garlic Linguine had us scraping the bowl for the crispy sunflower seeds. Meanwhile, a thrilling monkfish dish was handily matched up with equally impressive side portions of cassava and beans. Laminated cubes of melting-ly thin slices of cassava stacked upon each other crisped and crunched gorgeously, and the beans were al dente but packed with umami and flavour.
But while the chefs have considerable skill, there is also a clear departure from fine dining at Elis. The restaurant’s playful sensibility can be seen in the bolinho, which is served with a mini bottle of Tabasco. The sense of home-y, comforting food emanates from the pork tacos with pineapple which are hearty, even in their bite-size portions.
The drinks
The drinks list at Elis features Brazilian classic cocktails and inspired takes on drinks that we already know and love. The Caipirinha is a must-order – an ultra-refreshing drink that muddles cachaça, sugar, and lime into a dangerously drinkable delight. It was a much-loved favourite of the late Anthony Bourdain. He spoke glowingly (and hilariously) of the drink’s intoxicating effects in the Brazil episode of his Parts Unknown series.
What’s magical about this cocktail is the first taste, it’s like I don’t know, man, it’s a little too something. Then like that second sip, it’s like oh, that’s kind of good. Then the third sip, it’s where are my pants?
Just… try not to lose your trousers in the restaurant!
But don’t overlook Elis’ Cynaroni. This particular digestif turns the beloved negroni (another Bourdain fave) on its head with aged cachaça and Cynar (a bitter artichoke liqueur) thrown into the mix. It’s equal parts herbal, bitter, and slightly confusing – but in the most delicious, drinkable way possible.
The restaurant’s menu also boasts a careful menu of wines. These start at £7 a glass, furthering the accessibility of a meal at Elis. Love wine but can hardly decipher the tomes of bottles? It’s no matter at Elis, where the staff are always nearby with impeccable suggestions. You’re in good hands here.
Final thoughts
Da Terra’s three-hour tasting menu runs customers £230 a head, or £170 for the lunch service. And that’s a cost that many are more than happy to pay, given the restaurant’s vaunted two Michelin-star status. There are, after all, less than 20 restaurants in London with two or more Michelin stars.
But if you’re after a casual taste of the experience, Elis is the answer. A hearty meal for two hardly even approaches the individual cost of the lunch tasting menu. And that’s with a generous order of multiple courses and drinks. Elis is an easy recommendation. It handily and impressively redefines our relationship with fine dining and Brazilian food all in one fell swoop.
Now, can more top-tier restaurants please open up a casual little sibling restaurant? It’s a concept that I am 100% here for.