A well-loved favourite of Camden Punks and Warren Street students, ICCO has been knocking about London’s pizza scene since the turn of the millenium, rivalling some of the best places in the city for a slice. And finally this month, on a busy Soho street corner, ICCO’s family has expanded to a third sibling. I’ve graced these cobbles and potholes enough times, so how could I mind my own business and not pop down for a nose about?
ICCO’s uncomplicated mantra is no-nonsense: fresh pizza, great value, and a warm focus on the people who come on by. And on first impressions, the place doesn’t disappoint. Lots of Soho pizzerias are too entangled in boujie decor and dark mood lighting. Refreshingly, this new place is all windows at the front, milkshake bar-style chrome barstools, pure white lighting and clean tiling.
The inside
As I’ve already mentioned, the place has a refreshingly simple, clean and welcoming entrance. You’re through the door and straight at the counter, which saves that sort of awkward catwalk thing lots of pizza places make you do just to get an order in. In proper pizzeria style, the chef is stationed in full-frontal view as they’re rolling, flipping and preparing freshly made-to-order pizza bases for cooking, adding to the lively, authentic feel of the newest ICCO branch. The host staff are wonderful and attentive, but as someone who’s worked in retail for years, this is your friendly reminder from a Secret London writer to be considerate to them as a little rapport goes a mile in hospitality. The new ICCO will be one of the latest-opening places in Soho for proper sit-down hot food, with late hours from each Wednesday.
I did wonder if there’s potential for more bar stool seating where there’s unused space, but as a freshly-opened pizza gaff, there’s time to feel out for potential. I also look around and wonder whether there should be bins around for customers to help the hosts keep the place clean; presumably, this responsibility comes down to the staff.
The food
The main reason we’re all here. Having graced the Fitzrovia (Warren Street) branch, I’m a fan. And I’m chuffed that they’ve brought the winning formula for fresh pizza down the road to sunny ol’ Soho. Putting it bluntly: the pizza’s lovely. A perfect balance of a pillowy, floury base, and sumptuously hot toppings. I also had a gorgeous milkshake (just the perfect thickness), plus a side of garlic dough balls. Although said side didn’t blow me away in honesty, the garlic dip’s the perfect rescue condiment.
The pizza itself could rival offerings from nationally-recognised chains (like Zizzi, Pizza Express), though I cannot lie when I say it’s not quite a traditional Neapolitan-style like plenty of other Soho pizzarias offer. This, I feel, is the perfect pizza for homespun, fresh no-nonsenseness.
My eyes were bigger than my belly today, so I took the dessert (a pre-boxed chocolate cake) home. It was the perfect saviour for a 1AM fridge raid.
Although I chose a fairly simple meal, the menu (while concise) is all-inclusive: there’s halal meat, vegan substitution options, and healthier options, such as fresh fruit smoothies.
The entire experience
It’s getting more and more expensive to eat out and about these days, and Soho has long-lost its reputation for cheap places to get something on the move. It’s also murder to find somewhere to sit inside in the evenings or at night. So this genuinely cheap, budget-friendly ethos is more than welcome; ICCO is Soho’s saviour. It’s genuinely cheap but good (not “affordable”, which is a fibbing buzzword for not-quite-extortionate), and with the ability to sit indoors at night, this’ll be a gorgeous way to cap-off the pub in the dead of winter.
The system works simply by ordering and paying at the counter, then get yourself seated with one of those buzzy-flashy (technical term) things, which’ll alert you when your order’s ready to collect. The old-school vibe of the aesthetic matches the (wavering) way of ordering, gasp, in person with a human, but it keeps that personable touch that ordering screens has killed-off. I said it once, but I’m intrigued as to how the tables will be cleared and cleaned when it’s a mad Saturday night rush. I’ll find out; you can be sure, I’ll be back.
I popped by in the quiet lull of a weekday mid-morning, when Soho’s just a few office workers, bin workers, delivery geezers, and staffers opening-up shop. As I left, the lunchtime crowd quickly started queueing as the district was waking up to tourists and regular punters. I enjoyed the experience, having left more than full and satisfied (if not ready for a little nap).