Last night, I jumped into something new: plant-based food, which has never been a trend nor a necessity I’ve ever followed. But I decided to head into the reputable restaurant for a nose around with a guest, and to try their Taste of Mildreds small-plates menu as a wearily suspicious newbie to the world of plant-based. In a restaurant perfect for couples, mates, and groups, this is an all-rounder and one to put on your wishlist.
What to expect at Mildreds
Blink and you’d miss it: Mildreds in Soho is another classy, pastel-painted doorway in Lexington Street. It looks gorgeous, and with its sticky-out sign beckoning, the frontage of the place is stunningly compact, and you’d be forgiven for wondering if it’s a hole in the wall. Inside, the place opened up like an elegant Tardis. Skipping the cafe’ style set up at the front and warmly whisked to the back, a rectangular room leaves room for compact seating; it makes for an intimate date or a tightly-knit evening with friends.
I loved the art that covers the walls – tasteful, funky, and classy. Smaller parts of the restaurant blend mirrors and natural light for an expansive feel. I wandered around, looking for the loos, only to find there’s an entire two floors up, with a little more space – private dining areas. They’re decorated like a classy London living room, with a premium vibe. Between wood-panelled walls evoking old-time glamour and chic modern pastel painted walls, the place feels glitzy but not pretentious, and it’s well-decorated, top to bottom.
The new Taste of Mildreds menu
The Taste of Mildreds menu was a flurry of flavours, with a see-saw between sizzlingly spicy and tenderly flavourful. My favourite of the mains were the arancini rossi (a type of faux chorizo in the form of balls); I’d have wolfed down a bucket of these without even thinking about it,
The worldwide influences brought together to make this delicious menu are visible, clearly-researched, and well-executed. From a special type of hummus, a gorgeous Sri Lankan curry (Kiri Hodi), to pillowy pita, there’s something for everyone. While it should be said that if you’re not a spice fan, you need to err on the side of caution, this is not a warning to avoid anything; the dishes are a flavourful blend, and some of them have a subtle kick. I relished all of them, one after another.
The highlight for me, after the delicious tasting menu – nonetheless a full course – was a chocolate cake: chocolate upon chocolate upon chocolate. Layered cake, biscuit balls, and a sauce. It was delicious, and I could not believe it was entirely plant-based. Maybe I’ve finally been concerted to the plant-based crew.
While the presentation was gorgeous, immaculate and oh-so-classy, I’m a fiend for disregarding style over substance. This scran, however, hit the mark. The food was actually stellar. I couldn’t finish absolutely everything – this is a menu to leave you 100% satisfied, not yearning for more. Split between two, the price is more than fair for what you get in a Central London restaurant.
What to order off the Mildreds’ drinks menu
I enjoyed one boozy drink and one fruit juice: a lime yuzu spritz, and pineapple, apple, ginger & turmeric. The fruit juice was what it said on the tin – but it didn’t leave a sickly overly sweet taste afterwards; perfect. The cocktail – well – I am still thinking about it as I write this. It was perfect, and vodka-based cocktail lovers will want to roll with this one. It’s soft yet sweet, not acidic, nor sharp. This delicious pair was the perfect compliment – alongside the staff dutifully topping-up water whenever my glass reached mid-level – which helped, with the slightly spicy dishes.
“The staff took care of everyone with unforced warmth”
Kudos, hats-off, fair play. The staff were a lovely bunch, who did the magical act of making me feel warmly welcomed – even when they’re visibly swept-off their feet with a bank holiday dining crowd. I’ve worked in retail for years, so 100% get how it can be, yet they pulled it off with finesse.
I had the best time. Just as I was ready to leave, the lights dimmed and tabletop candles came out for the evening service; while I feel like I’d missed the second act of their wonderful performance, I left satisfied.
The good vibes clearly radiated across the restaurant. I observed fellow diners, and everyone seemed, just… Happy. The staff took care of everyone with unforced warmth – yet were on it with everything, from checking on their diners, to taking note of allergies. For anyone wanting a veggie or vegan-friendly place, with a hint of spice and nice, in a classy place with lovely staff, I’ll be telling them to call Mildreds.
📍 Mildreds Soho is found at 45 Lexington Street, London W1F 9AN