An evening out in the Big Apple might be a dream for many in London – even if we will pipe up for the big smoke in the ‘which city is better’ debate – but there’s a spot on a London Bridge street corner that oozes NYC and knows a thing or two about grilling their dishes to perfection.
Dishes at BRIX, with head chef Maria Deligianni at the forefront, deliver on flavour and use charring to elevate steaks, corn, skewers and more to another level. And being both a restaurant and bar with NYC overtones, there are, of course, cocktails… cocktails that play around with the formula of classics to provide unique flavourings that complement the atmosphere of the space.
BRIX London Bridge
BRIX’s New York City influence is obvious from the minute one walks in, but it presents an understated urban calm as we take our seats around the wooden table with a view over to the chefs at work around their brick-laden counter.
Staff add to the soothing but lively atmosphere, with service that is alert and attentive, but by no means overbearing – allowing you to take the time to enjoy your drinks and your mains as they arrive. BRIX is an oasis for long conversations over wine and dinners where the grilled meat and ambience create a shared space to live long in the memory.
The Drinks at BRIX
Wine changes by the season at BRIX, with a thought-out and carefully curated menu made up of 90% organic wines. You’ll find a selection of red, orange, and rosé wines, but, after a delightful glass of the sparkling INT3GRAL3 (which comes from the same region of Italy as prosecco), our group got to work on the white 2020 Weingut Weszeli Grüner Veltliner, which balanced light and fruity flavours to work effectively alongside our starters.
Scents from elegant The High Line cocktail drift over to you before it’s even placed on the table; with the smell and taste conjuring up the feeling of sitting on a red and white picnic blanket in the park, each sip resembling the respite of the cool breeze fighting against the sun’s rays. Made up from gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, cucumber, lemon, and English sparkling wine; it works as a smooth ‘yeah? but look what I can do’ to the summer mainstays of Pimms and Aperol Spritz.
Spiced Mango Margaritas also went down a treat, made with fresh honey mango and seasoned on the rim with tajin. A spicy margs is always going to be a popular item, and straying away from its standard formula pays off with flavours that earn their keep.
The Food At BRIX
A selection of starters kicked off our introduction to the craft and expertise of the grill at BRIX. Pork Belly Skewers with pork crackling chips and Gochujang beurre blanc came off beautifully charred and the BBQ Brisket Croquettes were powerfully delicate with each flavour given room, not overwhelmed by the barbecue flavour as feared.
It was, however, the Corn Ribs dish that made the team begin to gush. Charred corn lathered with the rhubarb ketchup was followed up by the fun ending in the form of caramel popcorn pieces; sweet with a hint of salt to whet your appetite for the dessert to come later on.
If you have room, go for the fluffiest pitta bread you’ll find south of the river with moreish olive butter melted in and covered in a colourful selection of light hummus, stylish skordalia, and a powerfully flavoured muhammara – easily the pick of the dipping bunch.
The Hanger Steak has a stream of red liquid drooling out of its slices, but it’s not blood that seeps onto the plate (despite ordering rare); just beetroot from the inspired chimichurri that coats the meat. With jalapeno and alioli also in the mix of the dressing, it adds to the contrast of juiciness and – you guessed it – charred flavours that leap out from that grill. Again, it’s juicy, but never soggy; coming from a chef who understands the indulgence of a liquidy garnish making itself known all over the plate (and an excellent dipping accompaniment for the fluffy Jersey royal potatoes that were ordered on the side).
A peek over at my colleague’s dishes confirmed that the Tiger Prawns is also not a plate to flick your eyes past. Messy, spicy, runny, indulgent. That’s my order next time (if I can resist the steak’s calling once again).
While there is some disparity in portion size (you’d need a side with the steak, but perhaps not with the aubergine or short rib hummus dishes), the menu at BRIX is fairly priced with generosity in both flavour and substance. You might baulk at £10 for a baklava cheesecake at first, but when it arrives you’ll be treated to a large hunk of a serving that renders your double-layered decision – both the investment and leaving room in your stomach – to be a shrewd slice of cunning trickery. Raise that last High Line to the cheesecake tacticians out there.
At BRIX it’s a case of come for the grilling; stay for the playful cocktails and carefully considered, ever-changing wine menu. And you can do just that until 1am at the end of the week (Thursday-Saturday), all propped up by the excellent service you’ll be treated to throughout. And, as a final warning: don’t commit a crime in the courts that oversee the melding of two classic desserts by skipping on that baklava cheesecake. Wear your loosest trousers if you have to – because what’s more New York than a few crafty cocktails and a slice of cheesecake?